CAVE LIFESTYLE . . . FIESTA AND SIESTA

"How does anything ever get done around here?" We found ourselves asking one morning. After dropping the kids off at school, we were trying to get some jobs done in the village and everyone seemed to be having breakfast, the bank manager, the mayor, the policeman. Even the owner of the bar we went to was next door having a coffee. Just as well we came down early then for at two o'clock there wouldn't be anything open either.

During our first few months here the famous Spanish siesta, although now in my opinion a great invention, was something we struggled to get used to. We were often caught short with no food or left hanging around for an hour or so waiting for the shops to open again. We always knew that especially during the summer the villages would shut down for a few hours at 2:00 pm to enable people to have lunch and a little rest before business resumed trading again. What we didn't bank on though was business not resuming until at least 7:30 pm if at all, especially in August.

Fresh from the UK grindstone, where to us whatever the time of year, 7:30 pm was bath and bed time for the kids or tea and relax time for us, it came as quite a shock to discover that here 7:30 pm was the time when people were just beginning to wake up again. It took some winding down and many occasions of our neighbours laughing at us while we struggled with our evening meal in the sweltering heat of the caravan at six o'clock, before we finally began to appreciate the beauty of the Spanish siesta.

The siesta is very important to help you cope with the lifestyle here in Andalucia, particularly during the heat of the summer months. After a morning of working, shopping or whatever else you do, it is great to have some you time or lie down in the dark after lunch safe in the knowledge that you are not missing out on anything as everyone else is doing the exact same thing.

During fiesta time it is almost impossible to enjoy the music, dancing, concerts and theatre shows put on in the summer without the siesta. Considering that events don't usually start until at least 10:00 pm and carry on until 6:00 am or 7:00 am, locals would not be able to get up and start work again at ten if they couldn't catch up on much needed sleep during siesta time.

For the less enthusiastic, the siesta period is an opportunity to enjoy some local attractions without the hustle and bustle of tourists and kids on their school holidays. We have often gone to our local pool at 3:00 pm after an early lunch and had the place almost to ourselves until about 6:00 pm when people start resurfacing again.

Knowing when siesta time starts and finishes is important to avoid being caught out or waste time waiting for something which is not likely to happen for some hours yet. Some shops in larger towns however do remain open all day so go during siesta time and enjoy the relative peace and quiet in which to do your shopping if that is what you want.

We are now used to and thankful for this lovely quiet time of day, but the fiestas, even now, still catch us unawares sometimes. We often wonder why, after our son has only been back at school a week after the holidays, he has a day off in the middle of the week. Or why the shops haven't opened as usual in the evening but there is a road block and procession going on instead.

The truth is the Spanish love their fiestas and take them very seriously. They know every Saints day and special date important to the village, region or country off by heart. There really is no need then to put up posters or remind us foreigners that on the third Wednesday in January the whole village gets together for a special meal in honour of their local saint so its pointless trying to buy those much needed loo rolls that afternoon.

Fiestas are not just an excuse to have a lie in and then go down town to get plastered, but it's an opportunity to get together with family and friends, mix with other people from the village or just enjoy the community spirit. It is true that free food and drink is often provided at lunch time and then in the evening there is a seemingly endless bar with burgers on tap to go with all the dancing. However, whether a one off event or a week long party, the whole village gets involved in helping preparing, planning, serving and clearing up. These festivities are financed by people paying a little during the year so look out for the signs in the bank as its worthwhile making a donation if you want to experience this unique part of Spanish culture for yourself.

Although fiesta dates vary from village to village, read more to find out about fiestas in your area.

Fiestas information

While living in or visiting Andalucia, you can enjoy about 14 holiday days a year, ten of which are national and two are regional, then there are of course those local fiestas. We have tried to explain the most common fiestas and give their usual dates. This is intended only as a guide to our local area and may vary slightly depending on where you are based.

Los Reyes Magos - 5th January
The evening of the 5th January is when the three kings visit the village and all children who have been good receive their present. The evening starts with a procession of the Kings through the village throwing sweets and other goodies into the crowds. The evening culminates with the giving of presents in the village hall. Each child's name is called and they go up and receive their gift (Parents of course must deliver the gift to the town hall in advance, but don't tell your children that!)
The 6th January is a public holiday

San Antón and San Sebastian - 16th to 20th January
Traditionally celebrated between the 16th and 20th January, these fiestas contain a mix of themes and costumes.

The following information is typical to our village of Orce and may vary slightly in other villages

The 16th and 17th are dedicated to the memory of San Anton and the 19th and 20th to the memory of san Sebastian. The free day in the middle is known as the day of the fox.

Each day consists of a procession through the village with the saints, for San Anton the dress is usually that of soldiers and the traditional dress for San Sebastian is that of the Moors and Christians. There is dancing and free food and drink available throughout the fiesta period. Usually on the 16th, the traditional lunch time menu is a lovely warming beef stew, On the day of the fox, Migas a traditional dish made with flour, water and olive oil is on offer and usually the last day is reserved for the amazing giant paella, cooked on a dish large enough to feed the whole village

Lardero Thursday - held on the Thursday before Carnival Sunday
Typical to this area, this is the day when traditionally, the villagers, in anticipation of Spring, go out into the countryside and check on their crops. It can also be known as the day of the tortilla as this is what is usually eaten along with local charcuterie products, and the 'panete' or 'hornazo' which is a type of bread bun with an egg in the middle.

The evening will be spent dancing in the village and the local 'Migas' dish is available for those revellers who last into the early hours!

Carnival

Villages celebrate on various dates before the 40 days of lent and the main event is held usually on Shrove Tuesday

Whichever village you happen to be in during this time, you will see processions of children in fancy dress, music and dancing. The evening of the village's main carnival date is reserved for a type of masquerade ball where everyone comes to the dance in fancy dress. Again a great bar with local food is available.

Dia de Andalucia - National holiday in Andalucia
February 28th

Easter - Holy Week or Semana Santa
Easter week processions take place in the week leading up to Easter Sunday, with the best processions being on Maundy Thursday, Good Friday and Easter Saturday. The parades which carry statues of Christ on the cross and the Virgin Mary, slowly make their way through the streets and the costumes are very elaborate with beautiful coloured robes and tall hats which cover the face. These costumes may look like what is worn by the Ku Klux Klan, but they hold a different meaning altogether and are not sinister at all.

Day of the cross - 3rd May
A beautiful sight with crosses in the village being decorated with flowers. The fiesta takes the form of a competition, with a chosen panel of judjes choosing the best three decorated crosses in the area.

Romeria de la virgin de la cabeza - last Sunday in May
Mass on this day is followed by a procession through the village and then local people go out into the countryside and have their lunch by the small hillside churches there. In Orce, this day coincides with the annual painting of the swimming pool!

Patron saint of villages public festival - 15th August (national holiday in Spain)
This date is incorporated into the summer ferias taking place in villages all over. Each year there is a variety of activities and attractions, but there is something for everyone, music, dancing, concerts, theatre shows, special markets - the list is endless and so is the energy of the people, for the party is still in full swing at six in the morning most days!!

Noche Buena (Christmas eve)
In marked contrast to other Spanish Fiestas and festivals, the celebrations which take place on Christmas eve are unlike any other because the village is actually very quiet and almost everything is closed. The evening of December 24th is reserved for family celebrations in the home.

Other important fiesta dates throughout the area

Baza

• Feria and fiesta Virgen de la Piedad - 6-12 September
• Feria Chica - 8-11 November
• Fiesta de Santa Bárbara - 4th December
• Fiestas del bastentano - throughout August

Benamaurel

• Fiestas of the Moors and Christians - last Saturday in April to the following Tuesday
• Celebration of San León Magno - 11th April

Caniles

• Las Fiestas del Robo del Santo - 18-20 January
• Fiesta de San Antonio - 11-13 June
• El día de la Vieja - the Wednesday in the middle of Lent
• Feria and Fiestas of Caniles - 4-8 August

Castilléjar

• Fiestas de Emigrante - 31st January, 1st 2nd & 3rd February
• Fiesta de la Cruz - 1st, 2nd & 3rd May
• Fiestas de San Isidro Labrador - 15th, 16th & 17th May
• Fiestas de Sto. Domingo - 6th, 7th, 8th 9th & 10th August
• Fiestas de la Virgen de las Mercedes - 24th September
• Fiesta de la Virgen del Rosario - 1st Sunday in October

Castril

• Romería Virgen de la Cabeza - last Sunday in April
• Fiestas of the patron Saints of Castril - October

Cortes de Baza

• Fiestas San Cosme & San Damián - 26th & 27th September
• Local Fiestas & Feria - 18th - 21st August

Cuevas del Campo

• Fiestas de San Isidro Labrador - 15th, 16th & 17th May
• Fiestas del Santo Angel - 2nd October
• Fiestas honor a los inmigrantes - 15th - 17th August

Cúllar

• Fiestas of the Moors & Christians - Last Saturday in April to 3rd May
• Fiestas de San Agustin - 26th - 30th August
• El Rosario de la Aurora - Every Sunday during October

Freila

• Fiesta de San Marcos - 25th April
• Fiestas de Nuestra Señora de los Dolores - first weekend in August

Galera

• Rosario de San Aquillino - 4th January
• Fiestas de San Antón - 15th - 18th January
• Fiesta de la Virgen del Rosario - 12th October
• Baile de las ánimas - 28th December

Huéscar

• Fiestas de San Antón - 4th January
• Summer fiestas - throughout August

Orce

• Día de los Inocentes - 28th December

Puebla de Don Fadrique

• Fiesta de las animas - 28th & 29th December

Zújar

• Fiesta of the Moors & Christians - Last Sunday in April, for four days
• Fiestas del Santo Angel - 2nd October