LIVING IN A CAVE

. . . cave homes in Andalucia
. . . caves in Spain

 

 
 

SHOPPING . . . A BASIC GUIDE

A guide to the basic and sometimes unexpected . . .

Generally from 9:30 am Monday to Saturday most shops will be open or in the process of doing so between 10:00 am and 2:00 pm everything that is going to open that day will be trading. Never assume that anything except the 24 hour garage will be open on a Sunday and if it is, then it's an added bonus.

If you take on board the siesta culture then you will be aware that at two o'clock, places shut down for the afternoon but it is often unclear as to when, if at all on certain dates, they will reopen.

Trading hours can be slightly confusing as summer opening times are different to winter ones, your supermarket may close at 8:00 pm in December but in August you'll find customers until ten thirty at night. Don't take any notice of those shops kind enough to put their opening times on the door because they are probably just having a laugh at your expense. Often you are there waiting for them to open at 6:30 pm, just as the sign says but it is not until 7:15 pm that the owner will appear followed by a handful of locals who seem to know something you don't. There will then be a bit of pushing and shoving and you find yourself at the back of the queue prepared to wait another half an hour.

In the beginning, as if negotiating the seemingly complicated opening hours isn't enough, the actual experience of shopping once you get through the door can be quite scary. We have a friend who, although he has lived here for more than ten years and is practically fluent in Spanish, will not go shopping on his own because the older generation of Spanish women both terrify and annoy him at the same time. If he's behind an old dear who hasn't actually pushed in and feeling quite calm, as soon as she pulls out her shopping list, his heart sinks.

On entering the village shop, while we foreigners unsure of the language at the best of times build ourselves up after hours of planning and practising, there are some locals who manage to spend twenty minutes confusing everyone in sight including themselves. For example they might ask for biscuits as on their list. "Sweet or savoury" comes the reply, "not sure" says she, then "big or small pack, plain or with a coating?" She eventually decides on a large packet of savoury biscuits to go with cheese. When presented with her choice, out comes a flurry of words not altogether understandable and it emerges she wants the same biscuits as her niece bought two years ago on a Tuesday in August. By now, quite frustrated but still smiling, the shop keeper gives her a small packet of chocolate cookies and she is quite happy. On to item number two . . .

The first time I entered our village shop safe in the knowledge my Spanish could handle it, I made a complete idiot of myself. If it wasn't bad enough to be caught rooting round the back only to be told to wait at the counter until my turn, I went on to ask for "siete arriba" much to the confusion of everyone in what by now was quite a crammed little shop. Turns out 7Up, as with other brand names is the same in all languages!

You might think that the types of shops you go into will guide you through your shopping experience. Not so, for on entering our local electrical shop to buy an adaptor and a couple of plugs we were told to go to the "estanco" or tobacconists. Also after a frantic search for nappies we eventually found some in the cigarette shop when we went in to buy some fags for our nerves. In fact the local cigarette shop which often doubles up as a newsagents, contains all manner of goodies from buttons to ironing boards and paint to coat hangers, plus of course tobacco.

Since the change in the law you cannot buy tobacco from the garage anymore, but if all you need is a bottle of vodka on a Sunday afternoon then the 24 hour garage is the place to go. And, if you need a pane of glass for your window, go to the fish shop in Orce on a Tuesday or Friday - problem solved!!

All good character building stuff and it is important to keep trying and use your local shop - even if you go when there is no-one else about. Take the time to look up the necessary words and do this type of shopping as you will be seen out and about in the village, pick up some of the language and begin to feel part of the community.

We have been told by some locals in our village that they only know certain Brits exist round here because they are seen once a week in the post office to pick up their mail. It is such a shame not to use the local facilities regularly because there is so much on offer and although quite daunting at first, you feel such a sense of achievement when you come home with a chicken leg and a tin of peas that you ordered all by yourself. If you stick at it, in no time at all you will be able to go almost anywhere and successfully get what you need whilst enjoying the experience.

Markets

The best way to go shopping in Andalucia is to go to the local market. Each town or village will have a market day once a week where everything is sold from fresh fruit and vegetables to clothes and shoes at the most competitive prices. On visiting the local market you will experience, the wonderful atmosphere enjoyed by everyone. The noise is fantastic, traders shouting to be heard over the general chat of the shoppers and shoppers trying to make themselves heard above everyone else. The whole place is vibrant, colourful, busy and full of hustle and bustle. Watch out for shopping trolleys though as almost everyone will be pulling one behind them as they are ideal for filling up with the weeks best buys.

Below is a guide to when each village in the area has their weekly market day:

Monday : Cullar / Pozo Alcon
Tuesday : Orce / Caniles / Freila
Wednesday : Galera / Baza
Thursday : Huescar / Campocamara
Friday : Castril / Puebla de Don Fadrique
Saturday : Castillejar / Zujar / Guadix / Granada
Sunday : Maria / Benamaurel / Granada

Keep an eye out for the 'medieval markets' which come to town in August. This is a visiting market which usually makes up some of the local feria. As well as a delicious range of local produce such as cheeses, wine and honey, you will find many craft style stalls selling artesan ceramics, baskets and woodwork.

Unlike usual market days when things begin at about nine in the morning and close at two, the medieval market doesn't usually get going until early evening. There are also displays of dancing, music and even visiting animals for the children, to be enjoyed while you make your way through the huge array of produce on offer.

 
© Orce Serrano Hams (www.orceserranohams.com)
This web site is designed, owned and run by Orce Serrano Hams