|
SHOPPING
. . . A BASIC GUIDE
A
guide to the basic and sometimes unexpected . . .
Generally
from 9:30 am Monday to Saturday most shops will be open or in the
process of doing so between 10:00 am and 2:00 pm everything that
is going to open that day will be trading. Never assume that anything
except the 24 hour garage will be open on a Sunday and if it is,
then it's an added bonus.
If
you take on board the siesta culture then you will be aware that
at two o'clock, places shut down for the afternoon but it is often
unclear as to when, if at all on certain dates, they will reopen.
Trading
hours can be slightly confusing as summer opening times are different
to winter ones, your supermarket may close at 8:00 pm in December
but in August you'll find customers until ten thirty at night. Don't
take any notice of those shops kind enough to put their opening
times on the door because they are probably just having a laugh
at your expense. Often you are there waiting for them to open at
6:30 pm, just as the sign says but it is not until 7:15 pm that
the owner will appear followed by a handful of locals who seem to
know something you don't. There will then be a bit of pushing and
shoving and you find yourself at the back of the queue prepared
to wait another half an hour.
In
the beginning, as if negotiating the seemingly complicated opening
hours isn't enough, the actual experience of shopping once you get
through the door can be quite scary. We have a friend who, although
he has lived here for more than ten years and is practically fluent
in Spanish, will not go shopping on his own because the older generation
of Spanish women both terrify and annoy him at the same time. If
he's behind an old dear who hasn't actually pushed in and feeling
quite calm, as soon as she pulls out her shopping list, his heart
sinks.
On
entering the village shop, while we foreigners unsure of the language
at the best of times build ourselves up after hours of planning
and practising, there are some locals who manage to spend twenty
minutes confusing everyone in sight including themselves. For example
they might ask for biscuits as on their list. "Sweet or savoury"
comes the reply, "not sure" says she, then "big or
small pack, plain or with a coating?" She eventually decides
on a large packet of savoury biscuits to go with cheese. When presented
with her choice, out comes a flurry of words not altogether understandable
and it emerges she wants the same biscuits as her niece bought two
years ago on a Tuesday in August. By now, quite frustrated but still
smiling, the shop keeper gives her a small packet of chocolate cookies
and she is quite happy. On to item number two . . .
The
first time I entered our village shop safe in the knowledge my Spanish
could handle it, I made a complete idiot of myself. If it wasn't
bad enough to be caught rooting round the back only to be told to
wait at the counter until my turn, I went on to ask for "siete
arriba" much to the confusion of everyone in what by now was
quite a crammed little shop. Turns out 7Up, as with other brand
names is the same in all languages!
You
might think that the types of shops you go into will guide you through
your shopping experience. Not so, for on entering our local electrical
shop to buy an adaptor and a couple of plugs we were told to go
to the "estanco" or tobacconists. Also after a frantic
search for nappies we eventually found some in the cigarette shop
when we went in to buy some fags for our nerves. In fact the local
cigarette shop which often doubles up as a newsagents, contains
all manner of goodies from buttons to ironing boards and paint to
coat hangers, plus of course tobacco.
Since
the change in the law you cannot buy tobacco from the garage anymore,
but if all you need is a bottle of vodka on a Sunday afternoon then
the 24 hour garage is the place to go. And, if you need a pane of
glass for your window, go to the fish shop in Orce on a Tuesday
or Friday - problem solved!!
All
good character building stuff and it is important to keep trying
and use your local shop - even if you go when there is no-one else
about. Take the time to look up the necessary words and do this
type of shopping as you will be seen out and about in the village,
pick up some of the language and begin to feel part of the community.
We
have been told by some locals in our village that they only know
certain Brits exist round here because they are seen once a week
in the post office to pick up their mail. It is such a shame not
to use the local facilities regularly because there is so much on
offer and although quite daunting at first, you feel such a sense
of achievement when you come home with a chicken leg and a tin of
peas that you ordered all by yourself. If you stick at it, in no
time at all you will be able to go almost anywhere and successfully
get what you need whilst enjoying the experience.
Markets
The
best way to go shopping in Andalucia is to go to the local market.
Each town or village will have a market day once a week where everything
is sold from fresh fruit and vegetables to clothes and shoes at
the most competitive prices. On visiting the local market you will
experience, the wonderful atmosphere enjoyed by everyone. The noise
is fantastic, traders shouting to be heard over the general chat
of the shoppers and shoppers trying to make themselves heard above
everyone else. The whole place is vibrant, colourful, busy and full
of hustle and bustle. Watch out for shopping trolleys though as
almost everyone will be pulling one behind them as they are ideal
for filling up with the weeks best buys.
Below
is a guide to when each village in the area has their weekly market
day:
| Monday |
: |
Cullar
/ Pozo Alcon |
| Tuesday |
: |
Orce
/ Caniles / Freila |
| Wednesday |
: |
Galera
/ Baza |
| Thursday |
: |
Huescar
/ Campocamara |
| Friday |
: |
Castril
/ Puebla de Don Fadrique |
| Saturday |
: |
Castillejar
/ Zujar / Guadix / Granada |
| Sunday |
: |
Maria
/ Benamaurel / Granada |
Keep
an eye out for the 'medieval markets' which come to town in August.
This is a visiting market which usually makes up some of the local
feria. As well as a delicious range of local produce such as cheeses,
wine and honey, you will find many craft style stalls selling artesan
ceramics, baskets and woodwork.
Unlike
usual market days when things begin at about nine in the morning
and close at two, the medieval market doesn't usually get going
until early evening. There are also displays of dancing, music and
even visiting animals for the children, to be enjoyed while you
make your way through the huge array of produce on offer.
|